Gussets into Boots for more room

enerally a vertical cut is made to the required height of the gusset. Then a triangle of Black or Brown elastic is glue and stitched in place.

Standard example: Black leather boots with black leather lining. 
Gusset Height 10cm.
Gusset Width at the top 5cm.

Tricky example: Pale leather or suede with fluffy lining.
Gusset height really short 4cm. Or really long 30cm
Gusset Width really wide or really wide compared to the height.

Gusset Installation Breakdown Sheet

Before You Begin:

• Discuss price with customer before marking the boots.

Measuring:

1. Put both boots on the customer and have them zip them up snugly.
2. Left Boot:
   a) Measure the height from the top of the boot to where the zip slider stops. Record this.
   b) Measure the gap at the top of the zipper. Record this.
3. Repeat steps 2a and 2b for the right boot. 
   Note: You should now have 4 measurements: 2 heights and 2 widths.

For 3/4 Zips:

• You can add gussets, but will need to cut the boot to measure properly.

Main Steps:

1. After the customer leaves, double-check all measurements and record them in the notes section.
   • Use the longest height for both boots, but individual width measurements.
2. Calculate elastic width: Multiply the gap width by 0.7.

Gusset Placement:

• Generally, the gusset goes inside the leg behind the zipper.
  • For boots with a zip: Place it halfway between the zip and the back of the boot.
  • For boots without a zip: Place it halfway along or 1/3 from the back.

Boot with Zip Example:

1. Measure halfway between the zip and the back at the top of the boot.
2. Draw a line down the boot for the measured length (e.g., 10cm).
3. Cut a V-shaped piece of elastic slightly smaller than the gap measurement (e.g., 2.2cm) with seam allowance (7mm on each side). Total width = 2.5cm.
4. Glue the elastic to the upper boot, then glue and stitch the lining in.

Existing Gusset:

1. Single Split: Remove the old elastic and cut further down for more height.  Gusset will have a row of stitches in the old holes plus a row 2-3 mm from the edge.
2. Multi-cut: Cut through the center elastic and add your new elastic.
3. Consider adding the new gusset to the back seam if you want to keep the existing one.

Gusset next to Zip (Riding Boots):

1. Cut elastic 25mm wider than the desired exposed gusset width.
2. Trace and cut the zip edge shape onto the elastic.
3. Fold and glue 10mm of the shaped edge, then stitch 7mm from the edge.
4. Unzip 3cm past the bottom of the gusset towards the back.
5. Glue the elastic to the zip and stitch the gusset in.
6. Cover the exposed zip top if needed, matching it to the other boot.
7. Glue the gusset to the boot, then glue and stitch the lining down.
8. If necessary, extend the dome tabs with elastic.